If you want to learn more about 10×12 gable shed plans you have to take a close look over the free plans and step by step instructions in the article. This large shed is the right choice if you want to combine the addition storage space in your garden with a dedicated space for you garden hobbies. This DIY shed features double 6 ft front doors and a 3 ft side door, with a 24″x24″ window, so you can have plenty of light inside the shed. Remember to read the local codes before starting the project and to comply with the local regulations. The codes differ from one area to another, so it is safer to read them thoroughly.
If you want to get the job done in a professional manner, we recommend you to plan everything with attention, as to prevent costly mistakes and to build a professional garden project. Invest in high quality materials, such as cedar, pine or redwood, as the bench will be exposed to all kinds of weather. Apply a few coats of paint over the components, to enhance their appearance and to protect them from bad weather.
Shed Plans – 10×12 Gable Shed Plans – PDF Download
Materials
- A – Floor Frame – 2×6 lumber 12′ long – 2 pieces
- A – Floor Frame – 2×6 lumber 117″ long – 10 pieces
- B – Skids – 4×4 lumber 12′ long – 4 pieces
- C – Floor – 3/4″ plywood 4’x8′ – 3 pieces
- C – Floor – 3/4″ plywood 2’x4′ – 3 pieces
- D – Side Wall – 2×4 lumber 12′ long – 2 pieces
- D – Side Wall – 2×4 lumber 137″ long – 1 piece
- D – Side Wall – 2×4 lumber 90″ long – 12 pieces
- E – Side Wall wt. Door – 2×4 lumber 54″ long – 2 pieces
- E – Side Wall wt. Door – 2×4 lumber 12′ long – 1 piece
- E – Side Wall wt. Door – 2×4 lumber 137″ long – 1 piece
- E – Side Wall wt. Door – 2×4 lumber 90″ long – 12 pieces
- E – Side Wall wt. Door – 2×4 lumber 41 1/2″ long – 4 pieces
- E – Side Wall wt. Door – 2×4 lumber 17 1/2″ long – 4 pieces
- E – Side Wall wt. Door – 2×4 lumber 24″ long – 2 pieces
- E – Side Wall wt. Door – 2×4 lumber 27″ long – 4 pieces
- E – Side Wall wt. Door – 2×4 lumber 78 1/2″ long – 2 pieces
- E – Side Wall wt. Door – 2×4 lumber 6″ long – 4 pieces
- E – Side Wall wt. Door – 2×6 lumber 39″ long – 2 pieces
- F – Front wall – 2×6 lumber 75″ long – 2 pieces
- F – Front wall – 2×4 lumber 10′ long – 1 piece
- F – Front wall – 2×4 lumber 113″ long – 1 piece
- F – Front wall – 2×4 lumber 20 1/2″ long – 2 pieces
- F – Front wall – 2×4 lumber 90″ long – 6 pieces
- F – Front wall – 2×4 lumber 84 1/2″ long – 2 pieces
- G – Back wall – 2×4 lumber 10′ long – 1 piece
- G – Back wall – 2×4 lumber 113″ long – 2 pieces
- G – Back wall – 2×4 lumber 90″ long – 9 pieces
- H – Siding – 5/8″ T1-11 48″x96″ long – 6 pieces
- H – Siding – 5/8″ T1-11 48″x95″ long – 4 pieces
- H – Siding – 5/8″ T1-11 24″x95″ long – 1 piece
- H – Siding – 5/8″ T1-11 24″x7″ long – 1 piece
- H – Siding – 5/8″ T1-11 48″x28 3/4″ long – 4 pieces
- H – Siding – 5/8″ T1-11 24″x34 3/4″ long – 2 pieces
- I – Bottom Chord – 2×4 lumber 120″ long – 10 pieces
- I – Rafters – 2×4 lumber 83″ long – 20 pieces
- I – Middle Support – 2×4 lumber 26 1/2″ long – 10 pieces
- I – Overhangs – 2×4 lumber 83″ long – 8 pieces
- I – Overhangs – 2×4 lumber 8 1/2″ long – 28 pieces
- J – Roof – 1/2″ plywood 12″x82″ – 4 pieces
- J – Roof – 1/2″ plywood 48″x96″ – 2 pieces
- J – Roof – 1/2″ plywood 48″x48″ – 2 pieces
- J – Roof – 1/2″ plywood 34″x96″ – 2 pieces
- J – Roof – 1/2″ plywood 34″x48″ – 2 pieces
- K – Trims – 1×6 lumber 168″ long – 2 pieces
- K – Trims – 1×6 lumber 84 3/4″ long – 4 pieces
- L – Roofing – tar paper and asphalt shingles – 250 sq ft
- M – Jambs – 2×4 lumber 88″ long – 2 pieces
- M – Jambs – 2×4 lumber 79″ long – 1 piece
- N – Door Frame – 2×4 lumber 36″ long – 4 pieces
- N – Door Frame – 2×4 lumber 79″ long – 4 pieces
- N – Door Frame – 2×4 lumber 29″ long – 2 pieces
- N – Door Panel – 5/8″ T1-11 36″x86″ long – 2 pieces
- O – Jambs – 2×4 lumber 82″ long – 2 pieces
- O – Jambs – 2×4 lumber 43″ long – 1 piece
- P – Door Frame – 2×4 lumber 36″ long – 2 pieces
- P – Door Frame – 2×4 lumber 73″ long – 2 pieces
- P – Door Frame – 2×4 lumber 29″ long – 1 piece
- P – Door Panel – T1-11 siding 36″x80″ – 1 piece
- R – Window Trims – 1×4 lumber 24″ long – 2 pieces
- R – Window Trims – 1×4 lumber 31″ long – 2 pieces
- 4 pieces of 4×4 pressure treated lumber – 12 ft long
- 4 pieces of 3/4″ pressure treated plywood – 4’x8′
- 2 pieces 2×6 pressure treated lumber – 12 ft long
- 10 pieces of 2×6 pressure treated lumber – 10 ft long
- 3 pieces of 2×6 lumber 8 ft long
- 89 pieces of 2×4 lumber 8 ft long
- 20 pieces of 2×4 lumber 10 ft long
- 5 pieces of 2×4 lumber 12 ft long
- 1 piece of 2×4 lumber 4 ft long
- 2 pieces of 1×6 lumber 14 ft long
- 4 pieces of 1×6 lumber 8 ft long
- 1 piece of 1×4 lumber 10 ft long
- 14 pieces of 5/8″ T1-11 siding – 4’x8′
- 7 pieces of 1/2″ plywood – 4’x8′
- 250 ft of Tar paper & Asphalt shingles
- 1 piece of 24″x24″ window
- 400 pieces of 1 5/8″ screws
- 100 pieces of 2 1/2″ screws
- 1000 pieces of 3 1/2″ screws
- 500 pieces of 6d nails
- wood glue, stain/paint
- 30 pieces of rafter ties
- 1 box of 1 1/2″ structural screws
- 3/4″ roofing screws
- 2 pieces of door hardware kit
Tools
- Hammer, Tape measure, Carpentry square, Pocket Hole Jig
- Miter saw, Drill machinery, Screwdriver, Sander, Router
- Safety Gloves, Safety Glasses, Respiratory Mask
Time
- One week
STEP 1: Building the 10×12 shed floor
First step of the outdoor project is to build the floor frame for the garden shed. Cut the components at the right dimensions from 2×6 lumber. Lay the joists on a level surface. Drill pilot holes through the long joists and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the regular joists. Place the joists every 16″ on center. Measure the diagonals and check if the corners are square.
Fit the 4×4 skids under the floor frame, so you can lift it from the ground and protect the components from the moisture. Use rafter ties and 1 1/2″ structural screws to secure the skids to the floor frame. Invest in pressure treated lumber for the skids.
Select the location for the shed and remove the vegetation layer. Level the surface thoroughly and them compact a 4″ layer of gravel. This will help you by keeping the moisture away from the floor frame.
Use 3/4″ pressure treated plywood for the floor of the shed. Cut the sheets at the right dimensions and lay them to the frame. Align the edges, leave no gaps between the sheets and insert 1 5/8″ screws to lock them into place. Insert the screws every 8″ along the framing joists.
STEP 2: Building the 10×12 shed frame
Next, we need to assemble the plain side wall frame. Cut all the components from 2×4 lumber. Lay the components on the shed floor and attach the studs to the plates, every 16″ on center. Use 3 1/2″ nails or screws, through the plates into the studs. If you use screws, drill pilot holes. Notice the double studs placed at both ends, with 1/2″ plywood blockers between them. Double check if the diagonals of the frame are equal before laying it to the shed floor.
Next, assemble the other side wall for the shed. Use the same techniques described above. Notice the window and the door openings, with the double studs and the double 2×6 headers. Use 2x4s for the window headers. You can adjust the location and the size of the openings to suit your needs.
To assemble the double header, join together two pieces of lumber and a piece of 1/2″ plywood in the middle. Add glue to the joints and insert 2 1/2″ screws from both sides.
Next, build the front wall for the garden shed. As you can see in the diagram, I have designed it with a 6 ft opening, so you can install double doors and have easy access inside the shed with larger objects. Notice the 2×6 double header. Measure the diagonals of the wall frame and make sure they are equal. In addition, check if the corners are square when installing the studs. If you need more space for the opening, you can go as large as 8 ft, with very little modifications.
Next, build the back wall frame for the shed. Cut the components at the right dimensions and lay them on the floor of the shed. Use 3 1/2″ nails / screws to secure the studs to the plates. Notice the double top plates.
Lay the side walls to the floor of the shed. Align the edges flush and use a spirit level to plumb the side walls. Use temporarily braces to secure the side walls into place. Use 3 1/2″ nails or screws to secure the walls frames to the floor. Insert the nails / screws through the bottom plates.
Next, attach the front and back wall frames to the floor of the shed. Make sure the edges are flush and then insert the 3 1/2″ screws through the plates into the shed floor. Lock the adjacent wall frames together with 3 1/2″ screws. Insert 3 1/2″ screws through the top plates.
STEP 3: Building the gable shed roof
Next, build rafters for the shed, using 2×4 lumber. Use a miter saw to make the angle cuts, that is the quickest and most accurate method to speed up the process. The 26.5 degree roof slope is equivalent to a 6:12 pitch.
Lay the components on a level surface and align the edges flush. Cut and fit the middle support to the trusses.
Use 1/2″ plywood for the gussets. Mark the cut lines on the plywood and get the job done with a circular saw. Lay the gussets over the joints, as shown in the diagram. Use 1 5/8″ screws to secure the gussets into place. The gussets will reinforce the trusses, but remember to attach them to both sides of the trusses, except for the front and back end trusses (only on one side).
Attach the trusses to the top of the shed frame. Plumb the trusses with a spirit level and lock them to the top plates of the side walls with rafter ties and 1 1/2″ structural screws. Place the trusses every 16″ on center.
Use 5/8″ T1-11 siding sheets for the exterior of the shed. Align the edges flush to the side walls of the shed, then insert 6d nails, every 8″ along the framing. Use a saw to make the cut outs for the double door opening.
Cut and attach the siding panels for the gable ends. Use 6d nails to secure the panels into place, every 8″ along the framing.
Fit the T1-11 siding sheets to the side of the shed. Notice the cut outs around the door and the window. You can perform the cuts with a circular saw.
Fit the T1-11 siding sheets to the other side of the shed.
Build the overhangs for the front and back of the shed from 2×4 rafters and 2×4 blockings. You can adjust the size of the overhangs to suit your needs. Drill pilot holes through the rafters and insert 3 1/2″ screws into the blockings. In this case, the blockings are 8 1/2″ long, so we get 10″ wide overhangs.
Fit the overhangs to the front and back of the shed, as shown in the diagram. Align the edges flush, drill pilot holes and insert 3 1/2″ screws to lock them into place.
Use 1/2″ plywood sheets for the roof of the shed. Cut the sheets as shown in the diagram and then lay them to the roof structure. Leave no gaps between the sheets, drill pilot holes and insert 1 5/8″ screws, every 8″ along the trusses.
Use 1×6 lumber for the front , back and side roof trims. Fit the trims to the sides of the shed and lock them into place with 2″ nails. Use a miter saw to make the angle cuts at both ends of the trims and then secure them into place with 2″ finish nails.
Cover the roof of the shed with roofing felt, making sure the strips overlap at least 2″. Secure the tar paper to the plywood sheets with roofing staples. In addition, cut a large piece for the ridges. Install the asphalt shingles starting with bottom left toward the top of the shed. Read the manufacturer’s instructions.
STEP 4: Building the 10×12 gable shed doors
Fit the 2×4 jambs around the front wall. Align the edges with attention and insert 3 1/2″ screws to secure them into place tightly.
Next, you need to build the door for the lean to storage shed. Use 2×4 lumber for the frame and T1-11 siding sheets for the panels (the piece that you cut out when attaching the front wall panels). Cut the components for the door frame and drill pocket holes, as shown in the diagram. Align the edges flush and check if the corners are square. Insert 2 1/2″ screws to assemble the frame.
After you cut the panels you need to lay them on a level surface. Lay the trims over the panels and then insert a few 1 5/8″ screws to lock them into place. Turn the door upside down and insert more 1 5/8″ screws through the panels into the trims.
Fit the doors to the opening and then lock them to the jambs with hinges. Install a latch to keep the door closed and your possessions safe.
Fit the door jambs around the side door opening. Align the edges flush, drill pilot holes and insert 3 1/2″ screws to lock the jambs into place tightly.
Assemble the side door using the same techniques described above. Build the 2×4 frame with 2 1/2″ pocket screws and then attach the panel with glue and 2″ nails.
Fit the door to the opening, align the edges and lock it to the jambs with hinges. Install a latch so you can lock the door. Alternatively, you can install a pre-hung door.
Install the 24″x32″ window to the side of the garden shed. Next, attach the 1×4 trims around the window. That will enhance the look of the shed.
You can add decorative trims to the shed to make it pop. In addition, add a vent to make sure the air circulates properly inside the shed.
Last but not least, you need to take care of the finishing touches. Apply a few coats of paint over the exterior of the shed. A little paint will get you far in terms of appearance, and it is a relatively small investment.
You can notice the overall dimensions for this large garden shed, in the diagram. These dimensions will help you decide if you have the right space for this project on your property and also see if you meet the local requirements. You can see all my storage plans HERE. See 10×12 lean to shed plans and 12×16 storage shed plans.
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1 comment
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